My 4c Hair Doesn’t Clump

Happy New Year 2023! lol in March 2023. It was a draft I wanted to post a long time ago, but here we are. I can’t believe I made it a year without getting box braids, a hairstyle I grew up with my entire life, a hairstyle I used to get at least once a year.

What is a signature hairstyle you grew up with and it’s hunting your entire adult life?

Don’t get me wrong, I love box braids, extensions, wigs and weaves. But I also love the versatility natural hair gives. It’s totally magic when we comb our hair strands out to create afro hair vibes. No one can tell me the feeling of empowerment going outside than myself. It doesn’t need to be set with more modern styling methods like rollers, flex rods or heat tools. I love that we can wear it in different size of curls and waves by using braiding, twisting and bantu knot methods. And we can just simply wear it protected without extensions by simply twisting and braiding our hair away.

But what about our curls?

Why, when it comes to tight curls, we don’t explore these options more? Why don’t we try to learn more about curl clumping, texture and curl size when it comes to our own hair texture? Many of us have mastered the arts of creating a curl and wave structure, but are totally failing to clump their hair strands naturally.

I feel we’ve been very successful in making the natural hair movement a global phenomenon, but have been sleeping and failing to encourage all textures to get to know their curls. We have side movements like the curly and wavy hair movements and feel misrepresented because we feel there’s no room for us. But let me tell you, you don’t have to be excluded.

Your hair is curly, no matter how you see and wear it.

And just like we see others not only being on their natural hair, but also curly hair journey, you can do it too, if it’s something that is bothering you all these years.

It makes a big impact on self-esteem if you know how to clump, define and hold your hair strands for days. Even if it doesn’t become your main hairstyle. But it also makes a big impact to see your curls for what it is and not to have false expectations.

The density, hair texture: thickness of hair strands (fine, medium, coarse), hair surface in relation to shine (spectrums of silky shiny to cottony low sheen and mat reflections), pattern (straight, zigzag waves, s-shapes, o-shapes) and curl size is a genetical trait. It can’t be altered, unless your hair is irreversible damaged by heat, chemically treated or your body went through sickness/deficiencies or cancer treatments and is growing out different than it was before.

So please don’t expect your hair to clump and dry like your favourite ad girl, influencer and friend. Now this is for my 4c and b naturalistas. Your can never get a silky shiny curl texture if it’s not your genetics. Your hair can’t clump into big or loose curls naturally.

It will always want to clump into pen to needle size springs.

It can look wavy when it’s clumped and stretched with help of holding ingredients, but will always want to shrink back up to 80% in high humidity. It’s the nature of curls, once moisture hits, the internal structure is moving and getting flexible. So please, your 4c hair can never turn into type 3 hair, unless you get a perm, which is a chemical.

When it comes to sharing my natural hair journey and my experience I’ve gathered with 4c curl clumping, I always see a counterpart movement. Naturals who deeply believe this hair type can’t clump naturally. My hair is either manipulated by force or it’s not 4c hair, because their hair is unable to clump. 15 years after me exploring the natural hair movement through hair boards like Long Hair Care Forum for the first time, this stereotype has survived.

How can these spiral hair strands be manipulated to do something unnatural?

Why can’t these 4c hair strands build clusters of hair strands and move into the same direction with the help of gels? Why can’t 4c ladies use styling methods to enhance and hold their curls, when the entire natural and curly hair movement is doing so? It completely doesn’t make sense.

4c or micro curls won’t just clump by themselves. If you’ve trained your hair to do something else for several years and you’ve always combed your hair out to keep it stretched in braids, it will take a lot of time to see those curls clumping. That’s why the Maximum Hydration Method was so popular back in the day.

With the frequent hair washes, detoxes and radical ban of moisture blocking products, these tiny hair strands started to clump and stay naturally.

We’re living in sulfate free, silicone free, mineral oil free, plant based and organic times of hair care brands. Everything is available and there’s no need to play mixtress in the kitchen, if it’s not your passion and hobby. But stop treating your hair like straight hair strands! I’m here for support and will continue to share my thoughts and views on these micro waves and corkscrew curls. If you’re here to not only start or relearn your natural hair journey, but you’re also here for your own individual curl journey, let’s connect and learn from each other!

Botanical Gel Secrets For Long Lasting Moisture

Happy belated New Year, a month later! I’m late to posting & unfortunately haven’t made it to transform the 365 Days of Wash&Go Reels on Instagram into full blog posts. But let’s start this year fresh with a focus on providing you with as much as helpful information as possible and a walk through my hair routine as the journey continues. The goal is still waist length. So let’s get started!

If you haven’t heard about botanical gels a decade ago, I’m sure you’ve probably heard about it in recent times with tight curly heads rocking defined & long lasting beautiful wash and go sets. I first heard about botanical gels in 2014 when I stumbled across the Maximum Hydration Method, a modified version of the Curly Girl Method for coily 4c heads challenged with what they thought is low porosity hair.

What are botanical gels?

There’s no real definition for it and I unfortunately don’t know the origins of this term and who invented it. If you google it you’ll come across skin care gel moisturisers or cleansers mainly, so it definitely indicates it’s not a word exclusively made for hair care. Naturallycurly.com has published a post about The 7 Best Botanical Gels for Shiny, Healthy Curls in 2015, mentioning the Maximum Hydration Method. If you dive into Long Hair Care Forum threads, you’ll find out, people were mentioning botanical gels with wash and gos & also the Maximum Hydration Method in 2014. So I strongly believe this is how this type of gel slowly became very popular throughout the natural hair community. You can hate or love the Maximum Hydration Method, but the internet history can’t lie where popular things came from! Botanical gels did not fall from heaven or where the invented terminology used by curl experts. The internet made it popular..

So here’s the best way to describe it:

Botanical gels are the opposite of styling gels made of synthetic ingredients. 100% botanical gels are made with plant based ingredients only and don’t require synthetic holding agents. So, botanical simply means plant based. Nothing more or less. They contain humectant rich ingredients with zero to tiny amounts of oils. The ingredients giving hold are also plant based. And the pH is so well balanced that it smooths and seals your hair cuticles further down. Since most of them don’t contain drying and synthetic ingredients that can build up on hair over time, the gel residue is easily removed from hair when it’s time for the wash.

What ingredients should I avoid when using gels and other styling/hair wash products?

If you really want to reap the best benefits from botanical gel sealing/styling, you need to read and understand the Ingredient list in the back of the product. I’m not 100% strict and don’t avoid all of these ingredients listed below, but that’s my long term goal: To use as many plant based styling products as possible. Here’s a short overview to really understand why plant based botanical gels aren’t only one of the best styling options available, but also safest products for your hair, if you aren’t allergic to certain plants.

2023 UPDATE: This list is inspired by www.msdeekay.com and Pinkecube’s MHM product list, which is based on the Curly Girl Method by Lorraine Massey. It’s just MY personal guideline to remind myself when I buy new products.

Especially since I’m reading & learning a lot about the science & chemistry behind cosmetic formulations, I can definitely say many Ingredients simply don’t have “natural” & better alternatives. Just because something isn’t natural, it doesn’t mean it’s toxic. Most of the things we find in nature are toxic, so natural doesn’t necessarily equal healthy.

That’s why I mention “concerns” and not “scientifically proven with studies” in the following paragraphs.

  • Triethanolamine (TEA)
    Emulsifier, fragrance, thickener, pH adjuster (alkaline and can raise ph of acidic solutions), can irritate when used in higher concentrations in a product because of its alkalinity.
  • Diethanolamine (DEA)
    Surfactant, pH adjuster.
  • Ethanolamine (Acetamide MEA)
    Ethanolamines are ammonia compounds that are used as surfactants, thickeners, humectants. They increase sheen and ease of wet-combing, reduce static charge.

    Ethanolamines including TEA, DEA &
    – Monoethanolamine (MEA is a synthetic waxy solid made up of amine and alcohol, used in ammoniac free hair dyes)
    – Cocamide MEA (mixture of ethanolamides of coconut fatty acids)
    – Linoleamide MEA (mixture of ethanolamides of linoleic acid)
    – Stearamide MEA (mixture of ethanolamides of stearic acid)
    – Cocamide DEA (Non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids, emulsifier, thickener, foam booster)
    – Lauramide DEA (derived from lauric acid)
    – Linoleamide DEA (derived from linoleic acid)
    – Isostearamide DEA (derived from isostearic acid)
    – Myristamide DEA (derived from myristic acid)
    – Oleamide DEA (derived from oleic acid)
    – Stearamide DEA (derived from stearic acid)
    – DEA-cetyl phosphate
    – DEA oleth-3 phosphate
    – TEA-lauryl sulfate diethanolamine

    are linked to concerns that they should not be combined with nitrates, because they create potential carcinogens. When used in products that also contain certain preservatives, they can also form nitrosamines (a class of chemicals with carcinogenic potential). Can cause allergies & irritations. The EU has banned Diethanolamine, DEA, so this says it all.

Waxes
Are mostly used as thickeners and are not water soluble. Beeswax, Paraffin wax among other synthetic and natural waxes can easily cause buildup in formulations. So you definitely need an effective shampoos to get rid of waxes. Waxes are great anti humectants, I wonder why they aren’t really formulated into gels.

Mineral Oil / Paraffin / Petrolatum (Vaseline)
Is an emollient derived from petroleum. It gives gloss & shine, acts as a lubricant and seals hair cuticles. The molecules are too large to enter the cuticles, so it’s not a penetrating oil. It’s a water repellant, excellent in preventing moisture loss. Look up your favourite hair greases like Blue Magic or Lanolin. This is what seals 100% once your hair is clean, damp & moisturised. In my opinion no gel or plant based oil out there can compete with mineral oils when it comes to sealing natural hair. When used in high concentrations it can block moisture from entering the cuticles and needs stronger surfactants to be removed from hair. Concerns are being raised if it could be a source for health issues, sensitivities and a carcinogen. Other names are also:

– Paraffinum Liquidum
– Petroleum White Mineral Oil
– Mineral Grease
– Mineral Jelly
– Petrolatum Amber
– Petrolatum White
– Petroleum Jelly
– Yellow Petrolatum.

Silicone (Siloxane)
Synthetic compounds, used in hair care products since 1970s. Their main function is to remain on the hair’s surface to provide a protective layer as lubricant, conditioning agent & heat protection. Some silicones are water soluble and can wash out with gentle cleansers. But many require sulfate shampoos or strong sulfate free clarifying shampoos. So if your styling products consist of silicones and you cleanse & condition your hair with silicones, there can be buildup over time, that can block the full potential of water to enter your hair. If you check out your favourite brands, most of them have clarifying shampoos. So they are fully aware some of their products possibly contain buildup causing Ingredients and those hair strands will require a good reset after some time. You can detect them as:

– Aminopropyl Triethoxysilane
– Amodethicone (water soluble to some extent)
– Behenoxy Dimethicone (water soluble to some extent)
– Cetyl PEG/ PPG 10 / 1 Dimethicone
– Cyclomethicone
– Cyclopentasiloxane
– Dimethicone
– Dimethicone Copolyol / HWP (water soluble)
– Dimethiconol
– Dimethyl Silicone
– Dimethylsiloxane
– Di-Isostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxysilicate
– Hydroxypropyl (water soluble)
– Lauryl Methicone Copolyol (water soluble)
– Methicone
– Methyl Polysiloxane
– Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate
– Polysiloxane (water soluble)
– PPG/PEG-8 Silcones and higher
– Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate
– Silicone Resin Spheres
– Silcone Quaternium 16 / 18 / 22
– Stearoxy Dimethicone (water soluble to some extent)
– Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone
– Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone
– Trimethylsiloxysilicate

Polyquats (Polyquaternium):
Synthetic cationic polymers to tame frizz, boost shine, define curls, and seal hair cuticles similar to silicones. They also provide slip, conditioning & some have anti-humectant holding abilities. Cationic means positively charged. Hair strands are negatively charged. That’s why they can bind to hair and build a protective layer around the cuticles by filling the gaps for an example. Polyquats are similar to silicones but act different. They don’t resist water like silicones, but cling on negatively charged hair strands, because they contain a charge of positive ions. So if your hair is more porous or simply more damaged, since the cuticles lost their function, the more polyquats will bind to your hair strands. Some polyquats are used for their water-resistant abilities to enable humidity resistant hairstyles.

But the downfall, again, is the buildup they can create over time, if you use those products containing them excessively. So your hair will need appropriate cleansers over time to get them out of your hair (just like silicones). Again, just find a balance. Here are a few examples:

-Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey (Honeyquat)
-Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorid
-Polyquaternium-4
-Polyquaternium-7
-Polyquaternium-10

UPDATE 2023 – This is what I learned from Swiftcraftymonkey (Canadian Cosmetic Chemist) Btw, a conditioner is not a conditioner if it doesn’t contain any ingredients that have the ability to “condition” your hair. Oils & butters usually lubricate the hair shaft, some are that small in molecular size to pass through the cuticles. But they normally don’t cling onto hair strands because of their charge. So those conditioners are technically moisturisers. It will require cationic ingredients that cling onto the hair to fill in gaps. The higher the damage, the higher the negative charge of your hair and the stronger those agents can condition your hair. The “healthier” non porous your hair is, the less you’ll require conditioning agents. These agents don’t entirely rinse off from the hair, once you finished conditioning. That’s why it makes sense to also follow up with a leave-in that contains one or two of the ingredients, because it stays inside the hair until the next round of shampoo.

Quaternary Salts (Quats)
Quaternary Ammonium Compounds are lubricants that provide total slip & great moisture. They’re also anti statics and can be plant derived or synthetic. Some also function as preservatives. Quats can build up on hair over time when used in high concentrations and excessively. So it’s all about finding a balance and not overusing them. Some are raising health & sensitivity issues regarding certain quats. Here are some examples quats you often find in more moisturising shampoos, rinse-out conditioners, deep conditioners & creams, moisturizers, leave-ins & other styling products:

– Behenalkonium Betaine
– Behentrimonium Chloride
– Benzalkonium Chloride
– Cetrimonium Chloride
– Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
– Behentrimonium Methosulfate
– Quaternium-18
– Stearalkonium Chloride

The list of Quats are actually long and you can also detect them by the ending in ‘um’ and number for example -15. For more about quats you can also check out www.tightlycurly.com with a detailed ingredients dictionary.

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG)
&

Polypropylene Glycols (PPG)
Are synthetic compounds that act as humectants similar to glycerin. Depending on what it is mixed with, they can also be emollients, emulsifiers, stabilisers, thickeners or gelling agents. Concerns are being raised they could be possible carcinogens and root for health issues. They are also not biodegradable, especially when PEG-50 or PPG-50 and higher in number (molecular size) is formulated into products.

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
Polymer that gives products extra hold by forming a thin coating over hair strands that fixates hair in place. Also known as povidone, it is a synthetic ingredient derived from petroleum (can also be derived from plants), water-soluble and prevents emulsions from separating. Some are raising concerns over its biodegradation. It was the first synthetic polymer introduced to fix hair in the 1950s instead of insect-derived Shellac. PVP acts as humectant and destroys the thin coating while pulling moisture from the air in high humidity and can pull moisture from hair in very dry weather conditions. It can cause sensitivities and allergies for some.

VP (Vinyl Pyrrolidone) / ​VA (Vinyl Acetate) / PVP Copolymer
A modified version of PVP. Water-loving Vinyl Pyrrolidone combined with water-hating Vinyl Acetate creates a film that is less brittle and less sensitive to humidity in the air compared to PVP alone.

Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA)
A synthetic polymer of vinyl alcohol that acts as thickener, film-forming and binding agent. The alcohol is drying and can cause irritation.

Denaturated Alcohol (alcohol denat)
Just Ethanol with additives not meant for human consumption. Can leave the skin and hair very dry. Formulation & moderation is key. My hair & skin dries out horribly when I products high in alcohol. My skin usually turns into grey ashiness.

Ethyl Alcohol
Another type of ethanol that can dry your skin and hair out.

Isopropyl Alcohol
Very strong chemical compound that can also be very drying to skin & hair.

These types of so-called short chained alcohols including

– Ethanol
– Isopropyl Alcohol
– Propanol
– Propyl Alcohol
– SD Alcohol
– SD Alcohol 40
– SD Alcohol 40 B
– SD Alcohol 38B
– SD Alcohol 39B
– SD Alcohol 40-2

are used to increase the fast drying process of formulas. Downfall is, these alcohols don’t just help your hair dry faster, but they can also suck the moisture out of your hair and skin while evaporating. So if you wonder, why you aren’t able to retain moisture long enough, read the back of your ingredient list. Maybe you’ll find the key you’re missing.

I remember trying out a drugstore hair gel on my hair when I did my first big chop and my hair horribly dried out. A true nightmare experience and I didn’t knew anything about botanical gels in 2010…

But do not confuse yourself and ignore entire products because they contain alcohols. I only listed these three as possible irritants. Long chain fatty alcohols derived from plants and oils act different and don’t dry your hair out. They help with slip, keep hair from dehydration, smooth and moisturise your hair. Here are some examples like Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohol along:

Cetearyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Lauryl Alcohol.

What makes a botanical or even semi botanical gel a super moisturising gel?

It contains a blend of not only humectants, like glycerin and sorbitol, that draw moisture from the air to keep your hair hydrated and flexible. It contains a blend of film-forming humectant rich ingredients. Here’s a list inspired by science-yhairblog.blogspot that gives you an idea what you should look out for:

  • Agave
  • Aloe vera
  • Cactus
  • Carrageenan (Irish sea moss)
  • Flax Seed Gel (Linseed)
  • Guar Gum (Guaran, polysaccharide derived from guar gum; Guar Gum is a resinous material made from the guar bean, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba)
  • Hawaiian Ginger
  • Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC, plant-based polymer derived from cellulose)
  • Honeyquat (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, cationic quaternary polymer derived from honey)
  • Marsh Mallow Root
  • Nettle Leaf / Nettle Extract
  • Okra Gel
  • Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5, precursor of Vitamin B5 / Pantothenic Acid)
  • Pectin (Purified carbohydrate product extracted from citrus peels or apple pomace)
  • Slippery Elm
  • Xanthan Gum (Polysaccharide derived from fermentation using Bacterium Xanthomonas Campestris & dried into powder)
Pectin

Now what are film-forming humectants?

Let’s go back to the basics if you’ve ignored the part about humectants. Humectants attract and bind humidity (water vapor) from the surrounding air when there’s enough of it. But if there’s no or low humidity in the air, humectants tend to pull moisture directly from your hair. Consequences are dry & frizzy hair. So something you think is doing your hair good is actually drying your hair out too fast. And this is not the end. Too many humectants and completely saturated moisture in the air is bad as well.

Why?

It’s because they tend to draw too much moisture into your hair, raising the cuticle, and hello frizz, again. Long time no see. So it doesn’t matter where you live, humectants and extreme weather conditions work against curly and wavy hair. Extreme dryness and extreme humidity is not doing a favour, when you use styling products that contain large amounts of for example glycerin. And that’s the main reason your wash and go sets aren’t holding up. You’re using the wrong blend of formulations, not properly customised to your weather needs. You can spend all the money on this earth trying to layer 20 layers of anti-humectant stylers on top or trying to use as much water as possible to work the humectant rich gel in, it won’t work out great. And will end with frustration.

Sea Moss Gel

Now film-forming humectants act different and are the true OGs of moisturisers you’re looking for your entire life, because they don’t just pull water from the environment or your hair, but they form a protective film over hair strands that help to slow down moisture loss. The molecules of film-forming humectants are larger and more complex than simple humectants. The natural cast they create around hair strands acts like a barrier for water to evaporate and for extra water to enter the hair shaft, which make them the ideal sealant. Using products containing them works well on all hair types from low to high porosity, because of the protective cast they create. And they work well in all weather situations.

So there you have it. All the answer on why botanical gels work so well and that’s why you rarely hear complaints about hair strands drying out too fast when styled with them. Just adjust them to your own hair needs and pair them with a few drops of oils, whipped butter or cream based styler/leave-in and you won’t need to put any products inside your hair for at least 7 days. That’s how they work with a consistent hair care routine and a hair wash of once a week.

So yes, I’m telling you to ditch the LOC/LCO method or at least modify and reach out for botanical gels, water based humectant rich leave-ins or lotions to do the job, cream based moisturisers aren’t able to deliver alone. Rethink and relearn what you’ve been told to use before. And ask yourself if truly makes sense what you’re doing. Always use a humectant rich product underneath and a cream based styler/leave-in on top of your hair. The higher the oil/butter content in a formulation, the more it forms a water repellent layer on your hair strands.

So you want the humectants and film-forming humectants underneath to slow down water loss. And it actually doesn’t matter if you are a low porosity or high porosity head. Both extreme cases are suffering from not enough moisture, so it makes more sense to coat these hair strands with ingredients that provide moisture first, before even trying to think about oil/butters first.

Or think about it like this: Everything that provides moisture with a high water content no matter if it’s a leave-in, lotion, gel, jelly or spray. It should be used FIRST. Or rename your creamy leave-in into a leave-out to understand what makes more sense when it comes to curls, coils & waves no matter how silky, cottony, tight or loose. Don’t we apply serum or toner first, before cream based moisturisers or face oils? Technically, for hair, it shouldn’t be different. But funnily, most of us use leave-ins first, and then the gels. I want to experiment to see what order provides me with the best moisture retention results in the future.

Aloe Vera gel

Btw my 4c & b hair strands are doing so well, because I tend to focus on brands that formulate their products with as many film-holding humectants as possible. My detangling sessions before shampoo include aloe vera and my clay masks always have glycerin in them.

If you’re especially interested in brands that formulate botanical gels and semi botanical gels, watch my Youtube video. I’ve used all of the gels mentioned there as my primer, leave-in or base as many call them. And the wonderful thing is that you can mix & match most of the gels mentioned in the video according to your own preferences. Just make sure to find a balance, especially when it’s humid. Too many humectants will kill your hairstyle and cause a lot of frizz. Better pair them with anti-humectants stylers or find that one styler that does it all with less humectants for those rainy days.

My favourite Gel of this Year has become Ecoslay’s Jelloshot (plant based, but also contains carbomer, a synthetic thickening agent: series of polymers that are made of acrylic acid). It gives me everything I want and is humid weather proofed by me. I only have to adjust the amount of water based leave-ins to get a more soft or hard gel cast.

Many are raising concerns about the use of botanical gels and other gel or mousse related styling products on naked hair in the tight wash&go hair community. People doing the 30 Day Hair Detox by BGC are dealing with damaged hair, especially the ones that followed with this hair care method by heart.

Watch this video first & then read here to see my observations & opinion about using water based styling products on naked hair with & without leave-ins.

Day 9 of 365 Days of Wash and Gos

“Day 9 of 365 Days of Wash&Gos ✨

Today with my son as a special guest. He wanted to do what Mama does and I only had the crying option!

Products used for his hair:
As I Am NAturally Born Curly Avocado Shea Cowash For Babies and Children, a tiny bit of the JBCO Conditioner, Leave-In Conditioner and Curling Creme.

Products used for my hair:
As I Am Naturally JBCO Shampoo, Conditioner and Curling Creme.
Aunt Jackie’s Frizz Patrol Anti Poof Setting Mousse.

My hair dried into a curly fro, but I prefer more defined sets with gel or jelly based products more. ❤️” @ buttermeperfect January 9th 2022.

” “Type 4c hair has no curl pattern! Look at my hair. There are no visible clumped curls”

#Sundayhair Reminder:

“This is not true and don’t be discouraged. You have a curl pattern!”

I’ve been trying out different hair care products and brands since June 2021 with the specific intention to do washngos on my tightly coiled hair strands only.

We’ve all been talking about techniques but knowing what products to use plays a huge role too.

This is how my hair looks like today. I did a washngo set yesterday and dried my hair under a hooded dryer. It was stretched with a blow dryer today and I’m feeling disappointed.

Only my ends are clumped. The rest of my hair looks like a picked out curly fro. You have all seen my washngo sets with curling jellies, smoothies, gels and foams.

It’s not that I hate this hair like this.

When I see my hair like this brings me back to the old days. But it will make you feel like your hair can’t clump.

The @asiamnaturally JBCO Curling Creme and leave-in conditioner works great on my son’s type 3c curls. But for me, I need a product with a strong hold. It didn’t give me enough hold with the Aunt Jackie’s Frizz Patrol Mousse. My next tryout will be with gel. ❤️” @ buttermeperfect January 9th 2022.

These detailed captions of my Instagram posts say it all

I’ve seen my hair curling up like this many years ago, but it’s not the hair style I’m looking out for. I want to have my hair strands as defined as possible. And I want them to frame my face a certain way. Afros and curly fro styles look nice, but it’s not what I choose to wear as my main hair style every day.

Afros aren’t easy!

It takes a lot of time and effort to actually maintain the hair into this rounded shape. If you want to do it right, you actually need hair spray to fix your hair in place. When you sleep or chill on a pillow case, it won’t maintain its shape. Which means more manipulation by pulling and tugging it back into place.

My natural hair has also grown out of the teeny weeny afro aka twa stage. I don’t like wearing head bands all the time. So wearing a crown shaped hair style with sleeked hair in the front is simply not my style. I prefer my hair to have shape, even if it’s the tightest curls.

Day 8 of 365 Days of Wash and Gos

“Day 8 of 365 Days of Wash&Gos ✨

I made to film an almost complete washngo set. My hair is currently drying under the dryer and I’m scared it will look flaky tomorrow because I used mousse as a topper. I hope not! ❤️

Products used:
As I Am Naturally Jamaican Black Castor Oil Shampoo, Conditioner and Curling Creme.
Aunt Jackie’s Frizz Patrol Anti Poof Setting Mousse” @ buttermeperfect January 9th 2022.

When it comes to hair washes, I rarely see issues besides maybe not liking conditioners 100%. The shampoos I try out leave my hair defined and soft. There’s nothing greater for me to feel the grip of my hair once I rinse the shampoo out of my hair.

How do I shampoo my hair?

I shampoo my entire hair open and don’t use hair clips. Twists and braids aren’t necessary since I cleanse my entire hair and not just my scalp. We type 3 and 4 heads usually rely on heavy products to achieve certain hair styles, especially when it comes to defining our own natural curls. To create a reset and reshape of your naturals curls and waves, you really have to wash your entire hair. The environmental dirts, oils and products residues have to be lifted away. If you don’t do it, you keep buildup on your hair strands preventing conditioners and other styling products to work properly.

  • The easiest way to shampoo your hair is to emulsify the shampoo in the palm of your wet hair strands first.
  • Your hair has to be completely rinsed from the old products, soaking wet and weighed down with the water stream.
  • Now you distribute the shampoo onto your entire hair. I usually start in the front, then the back, my sides and middle hair.
  • The shampoo will start to activate and lather into a nice foam.
  • This is the point where you use the foam to smooth it down your entire hair strands to stretch you hair out.
  • Now with the first lather you focus really good on your scalp. Don’t worry about the length of your hair, it will stay stretched, just smooth the foam down from time to time.
  • Repeat the entire process with a second lather. This time there’s a very rich lather and now you also begin to focus on your hair strands.
  • Smooth your hair strands down, kind of like sleeking your hair into a pony tail.
  • Depending on your density, you can work in sections by creating finger detangling motions.
  • I usually do the sides of my hair first, then the back sides and the middle of my hair.
  • If your hair is reverting, just smooth your hair down again. You will notice the air bubbles of shampoo are making your hair stiff but pliable. Perfect to remove around without having to rely on specific sections.
  • Once you get the hang out, you just hold & lift specific sections of your hair strands and massage your scalp to loosen up dirts and oils. You the finish the entire process by smoothing your entire hair down, just like creating a low pony tail.
  • Proceed to rinsing. Your hair will stay completely stretched out and the majority of tangles and shed hair strands will be already carried away by the water stream.
  • This method saves a lot of water and shampoo and will make you enjoy your hair, no matter what density you have.
  • Shampooing my hair takes me not more than 10 minutes and my hair clumps after the hair rinse.

You don’t rely on having to open each section or twist or braid, shampoo that section, rinse it and proceed to the next section.

You mostly end up with over rinsing sections, that have been shampooed before. Also when you braid and twist your hair too tight, you end up leaving either buildup or shampoo residue in those twists. If you don’t have a mirror or you don’t record yourself, chances are very high you’re starting the conditioning phase with shampoo residue in your hair. Which will be barely noticeable once you slap conditioners heavy in oils and butters over.

Which is why encourage you to start cleansing your hair open with shampoo

And learn how to work with the foam of shampoo to create smooth weighted down hair strands. This method is for everyone and don’t let others fool you by saying you can only wash it this way when you don’t have high density hair. It’s not true. Sometimes it’s hard to unlearn common practices we grew up with in this social media world. You better learn how to do it right while your hair is growing, so you won’t have issues once you’re reaching your hair goals.

Day 7 of 365 Days of Wash and Gos

“Day 7 of 365 Days of Wash&Gos ✨

I’m 15 minutes late 🧐.

The definition is pretty much gone. Only my ends are defined. So I decided to wear these cute braids styled with Accessorize hair bands.

How do you style your wash and go set when you loose definition? Rewash and set or keep it going?” @ buttermeperfect January 8th 2022.

What do you do when it’s not wash days, your curls are gone and you want to look cute?

Yes, you braid it up. At least that’s what I do when I don’t feel like putting my hair into a bun and smoothing everything in to not give fly aways any chance.

I made 7 chunky braids, two in the front and 5 in the middle back that I joined together. This hair style of course looks 100% better once the braids touch your bra straps, but my hair isn’t there yet. And we have to stop the obsession of long hair in the natural hair community.

These days everything is about long hair, thick hair or very defined silky curly hair.

There’s nothing in between and people literally punish you when it comes to social media and content creation, if your hair doesn’t look the same as their favourite hair idols. I often really wonder why we can’t bring reality to social media.

Observe your environment, how many (white) people have long and highly densed hair?

What makes you feel something is wrong with your hair? I consider myself to have medium density with fine to normal hair strands. And it looks the way it looks on camera. We have to start normalising average hair and not insult others, because their hair has not the tendency to swell or appear dense.

You’re either born with high density or very coarse hair or not.

There are no products that can increase the hair strands growing out of your scalp unless you have a malfunction of your body that needs to be treated. Only hair transplant surgeries can help you, if you have the financial budget.

So learn to accept your hair, be kind to others and don’t see wigs and clip-ins as average hair. These extensions can create long term insecurities, especially when you think you have low density hair and in reality it’s just average medium density hair.

Day 6 of 365 Days of Wash and Gos

“Day 6 of 365 Days of Wash&Gos ✨

Here’s how my hair came out when I took the silk hair scrunchies by H&M out.

What style do you like more. My previous reel on completely shrunken hair or this stretched and “longer” hair?” @ buttermeperfect January 6th 2022.

Day 6 hair has almost lost it’s definition.

When I stretched it out with my silk scrunchies, it gave me a blown out look with curly hair tips. My hair still felt greasy and I did not put anything into my hair. Now looking back, I should have just left my hair into it’s shrunken state and mind my day.

The As I Am Naturally Curling Creme might be a good product for you, when you enjoy wearing stretched and banded hair styles. I was surprised on how straight my roots looked like, once I removed the scrunchies. Stretching my hair in order to braid or twist my hair is not something I do often. But here I’m just giving you ideas and inspiration.